9/21/2019 Sr Suntour Xcp 75 Manual
SR Maintenance chart Suspension fork chart SR SUNTOUR FAQ CONTENTS SF-DURO-E suspension fork SF-DURO-D suspension fork SF-AXON-S/E-RL suspension fork SF-AXON-D-RL suspension fork SF-XCP75-LO suspension fork SF-XC-PRO-TAD suspension fork SF-NRX9100-RL suspension fork SF-NRX8100/NCX-E-LO suspension fork SF-NRX7500/NCX-D-LO suspension fork FRONT DERAILLEUR Note: Be sure that all described contents in this manual must be handled correctly by a qualified bicycle mechanic. Improperly installed forks are extremely dangerous and can result in severe and/or fatal injuries. Specifications are subject to change without prior notice. SR SUNTOUR Aug.
Well i mostly do xc riding but i have stock sr suntour xcp 75's on mine (100mm travel and no stupid boot covers) i find they work great. I suppose i'll probably upgrade them next year but i think ill still be a coil shocker then. ( im a 20ish past 200lb rider). These are supposed to be a step up from crap, so i'll have to find out what a suitable upgrade would be. In doing my own sr suntour research they seem to make a nice product. I think they get a bad rap because of all the lower end forks they produce.
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And i know around here its hard to even get sr suntours that arent on bikes ( for upgrades). Well ive got those XCP60's on the V1 and like i said they work well and i havent had a prob with them, well i suspose that is because ive had them for 8 months along with the bike. Although they bottom out with a heavy rider like me when i push hard going off a gutter, i wasnt planning on doing insane 6 foot jumps. I know i said something that would've sounded like that, the good thing is that the SR Suntour Duro D have got 130mm travel and they have rebound and preload adjustment. I still in the thinking bussiness of wether to get the 2005 escape 8.1 for something to muck around on all the trails around my house or to buy a good second hand bike.
Suntour only provide exploded diagrams and some basic info on their forks.from memory, youll have to download the full workshop guide. Its a bitch and its often fairly inconclusive but it has pictures. If your fork has mearly seized up, this is essentially the method I used to pull 'back in the day' of my old Suntour XCP-75s. From memory, the XCM sat a little below that so Im assuming there is no hydraulic damping of any sort.
Sr Suntour M2000
At most, I would expect the lockout but thats its own sealed cartridge. Its probably best to remove the fork from your bike to start with. Unbolt the footbolts so that you have around half the thread exposed (5 turns on each should do) With a rubber mallet/piece of wood and a hammer, hit the foot bolts. The shafts are pressed into the lowers and need to be unseated by this method. Remove bolts completly and carefully slide off the lowers.
Now, its at this point things get a little interesting. I know with my old Suntour XCP-75s here, I couldnt remove the spring assembly as I needed a specific tool to do that. Yours may be different but if the fork has just momentarily 'seized' due to induced water or whatever, a clean and a regrease should be enough. Start by cleaning the insides of the lowers. The first time I pulled my fork apart, I had alot of brown 'water' in there.so much I could have poured it out. Its just a reflection of the budget nature of the fork.
It will be greasy so use a mild degreaser/detergent to remove it. Rinse/dry after. Inspect the upper assembly for damage. Dont be suprised to see gouges/hectic rub marks on the uppers. If you can feel serious inconsistancies, consider buffing them back somewhat. Regrease (thin greases.enquire at your local bike shop as to grease 'suitable for forks) the shaft (the rod that protrudes out the end of the stanchions paying particular attention to the point of entry.) as well as greasing the stanchions and seals in the lowers.
Refit the uppers into the lowers and tighten foot bolts. They do have a torque recommendation so make sure you dont over tighten them.the end of the shafts on my fork were plastic.
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Once this is done, cycle the fork though its travel to work the new grease around. You will probably have 'tide marks' (residual rings of grease) on the stanchions-these will attract dirt which will be easily ingested back into the fork so make sure you clean this region. Its an idea anyways to clean the stanchions/seals of dirt anyways as it easily works past them. Uh, probably missed something but it is midnight so yeah.
They are only a coil/mcu set up. Rely on grease and cleanliness for lubrication and proper operation, hence, the lack of oil.
The XCM-LO will have oil in it for the use of the hydraulic lockout but that is in a sealed cartridge. Wouldnt be a bad idea to keep the spring clean up relativly frequently if your plan on keeping the forks around for a while.especially if you live in a dirty/wet sort of region. Like I said earlier, keep the stanchions clean after every ride and that should prolong the service intervals.
Marzocchi comps to heavy.try a set off 66's. As for 24in ive been looking for any price catergory, but they are hard to come by, jus use a set of 26in with a disc, thats what 24severn and dmr do.!aNT! Yea, I may have to do that. I don't really want to use the comps because of the weight and my front end doesn't half weigh a tonne. Its so hard to lift up for manuals and bunnyhops, etc.
I'll have a looksie at these 66's. I'm really keen on the DMR rhythm at the moment.
Anyone had any experiences with them? Look immense (Y) Jackery. Crazy people. The marzocchi 66 is a long travel extreme freeride fork. Put it on a jump bike and not only will it completely screw up the geometry, it'll snap your headtube clean off.
Not to mention the fact that they start at well over your budget and weigh more than your comps, whatever comps you're reffering to. Very few 24' specific forks on the market for the record, 26' with a disc is the way forward, or just no front brake for jumping. Since you think marzocchis weigh too much I won't suggest dirt jumpers, so why not try some nice Manitou Stance Statics? Cheap, and from what I've heard, pretty solid.
I'm a Marzocchi man myself. Personally I'm not a fan of DMR frames but alot of people are so.
Whats wrong with your Shred? I got a pair of SR SUNTOUR XCP-75's for £55. There not anything special but realy good for the money, there magnesium, and there adjustable and have mounts for v-brakes and disk brakes. They are made for 26inch wheels but ive been running them with 24inch wheels for about 2 months and ive had no trouble. I bought them second had from a guy round the corner but i have seen similar budget forks in decathalon at merryhill ranging from £40 - £60. They are no where near as good as marzocchi's and rock shox but for the money there incredible, i'd recomend them to anyone.
The only down side is that they only have about 75mm travel, abit on the short side realy. I got a pair of SR SUNTOUR XCP-75's for £55. There not anything special but realy good for the money, there magnesium, and there adjustable and have mounts for v-brakes and disk brakes.
They are made for 26inch wheels but ive been running them with 24inch wheels for about 2 months and ive had no trouble. I bought them second had from a guy round the corner but i have seen similar budget forks in decathalon at merryhill ranging from £40 - £60. They are no where near as good as marzocchi's and rock shox but for the money there incredible, i'd recomend them to anyone. The only down side is that they only have about 75mm travel, abit on the short side realy.
They'd kinda be a downgrade from his current forks I'm afraid. Heh, DMRs may be thinner than Konas but that's because DMRs are steel, Konas are aluminium (steel is stronger and heavier as a general rule).
D-Streets, the 24' specific forks, are way, waaaaaaaaay to heavy and only have 80mm of travel. And yeah, MX comps will do fine, they're not overly strong but they're quite light and you wont break them until you start riding alot bigger and harder. And yes, they'll go fine with the Rhythm's geometry. Smaller frames are great, I'm 6'4 and my jump bikes only a medium frame (15.5'), so much more chuckable than longer frames.
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